beemerchef
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To Boquillas Canyon, Texas
With much going on in the neighborhood such as mainly the Chili Cook Off, meaning “stay off the roads”, we went in hiding into Big Bend’s Park. Very few cars, a couple bikes and much space. Lets face it, it is the least visited Park in the USA.
We spend some time by the Rio Grande, across from Boquillas, Mexico, a small town separated from the World by a closed border and a River.
Such little distance separates us and yet in reality a different civilization is there, we are the same but we are not. We should be… maybe some day?
The ride back was as pleasant as the ride in, maybe a bit more thoughtful, unless totally insensitive to others it would be impossible to not start thinking at a population so close to us and yet so cut off from the mainstream.
The photos are on the Blog…
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Ara,
Your adventures never cease to amaze me! You seem to find something interesting every day…like paper houses. And the rice salad made me hungry.
I appreciate the map on the blog. I am not at all familiar with Texas. I did look up Marathon Road on the Delorme maps where it meets 385 and backtracked to see where it started. When you have a road named for a destination (eg Marathon), it usually connects two “important” places (eg two villages), starting in one and ending in this case at Marathon. But alas, not so in this case, at least on Delorme Topo 7.
That leaves me guessing that it is (was) a ranchers’ road, connecting scattered ranches with town (Marathon). Every road has a story….as you very well know. It would be fun to talk with a few old timers.
You comments about deep sand would fit nicely the experience of travelers in the teens and 20’s of the last century! Chains were carried routinely, not for snow, but usually for sand (or mud). Sand was a greater barrier to travel than mountains, or even most rivers. It might take a day to travel just a few miles if the road was sandy.
In some ways, you are re-experiencing 1917 on those roads!
Keep the Show on the Road!
Dave
That is a really interesting fact! I never knew about chains being carried for car wheels!!! Makes sense... much sense. I am thinking now, since I have a VW rear wheel and tire that maybe I could also have some chains!!! Imagine that... I looked and my rear tire is very close to the rear shock (mono shock) I need to investigate but that would really open up more roads to ride for us...
The land we are on is part of Terlingua Ranch, which is thousands of acres and... 1400 miles of dirt roads I am now allowed to ride... Thanks Dave.
“Papercrete Homes”, Texas
Quite an alternative for structures which would do well in this climate. A “paper” shelter! Who would have thought…
But of course as everything else there is a catch. Need for a mixer and above all water which we do not have to spare… Some kind of a pick up truck to haul “stuff”… some tools. A tent is sounding better and better! Always two sides to the coin.
This land tears me up sometimes in the sense that I don’t want to leave, such silence, quiet, peace and serenity surrounded by beautiful landscape, at the same time the road calls, the wind on my face while rolling down the stretches is also part of the present Life. I try to balance it utilizing warmer times to do so.
It is now the perfect weather for this area, it was a good decision to anchor down for the winter, not saying there will not be some freezing spells! I am hoping for some blankets of snow sometime in the near future.
On to Alpine today… there seem to be always and errand to run!
Be well… enjoy the “papercrete” homes…
Ara & Spirit
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The dirt road to Marathon, Texas
One does not realize how vast this area is till they traverse a region less traveled as it was riding the “Old Marathon” Rd, only 23 miles of unpaved road with long stretches of deep sand and rocky slanted sections and challenging. It is an area where one does not even see the glimpse of a roof at any distance, close or far as within other areas around here. It is again a “road” which makes one wonder how it all came about. This one connects east and west dropping into the Park in its end. We never took a stroll down Marathon’s main street as instead we stumbled onto a group building “papercrete” homes. A real interesting concept as they say it will change the future on how homes are build, utilizing much paper in need of recycling. It gives me ideas for putting up here at least for starters a “storage” structure. Of course it is a catch 22, I would need much water to accomplish that task… so we have to get the water situation under control first! Time will tell…
Enjoy the ride…Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Ara,
If we had gotten to within 500 miles of Texas we would have “dropped in!”
We only got as “close” as southern Idaho!Did you notice Spirit’s expression in your October 20th post? He looks like he is shouting…”Let’s Go!” ……or yawning.
I can't get over finding a pro like Paul in the "neighborhood!" Karma it is!
Keep the Show on the Road!
Dave
It is not only Paul but also Ryan fixing my solar as we met 125 miles from here! There is more good Karma coming... I will know next week...
More riding, some Friends and more cooking, Texas
Since “Old Faithful” ( might have to call her “Young Faithful” now!) has been revamped, we have been as they say “burning up” the roads, mainly to Alpine. Many “Motorcyclist Café” Forum riders have been in town for the weekend, “Aprilia” motorcycle demos, a great dinner and much chatting. Putting some faces on all those names, those handles everyone uses, has been quite a great experience. Big Bend after all “is” a destination as it feels being at the end of the World, and it is.
It was winter for a couple of days, the electric heated gear was out, today again the warmth has come back, one could not ask for a more perfect day on “The Oasis”.
Cooking some left over ingredients, pictures of how Big Bend has come about, it is all on the Blog.
Be well…
Ara & Spirit
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A ride to Presidio, Texas
Always a fun road to ride, to photograph, to stop and meditate, think about the reality of it all on how all this came about.
The road itself has been closed since the floods, all cleaned up now and open to local traffic when nearing Presidio only because of some cracks on the south side. It was a quick ride, a bit shorter in time for us from the norm as I know we will ride it again and probably again! Our phone is in! DSL is in at lightning speeds, all being an incredible task from the Big Bend Telephone Company. They showed up a couple mornings ago with semis and tractors, trench digger and a full crew to extend the line .3 miles! All in one day of work. They have a no non-sense operation and were back this morning for the final hook up and activation.
Spirit again is ecstatic to be riding in his car and between the all day ride and fetching the ball he is passed out… The “Do not disturb” sign is up… Maybe food will change his mind! The Sunrise and the Sunset yesterday where both an incredible gift from Mother Nature… you can see them on the Blog.
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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It is "Karma" David!... A road trip? and you did not visit?... hummmmm...
Rolling again in Texas…
“WOW’ has always been a nice word for me expressing the inexpressible! Hollow, brainless expression, yes, but yet it defines for me anything I cannot quite define or would have to use too many words to do so… “WOW” is all I could loudly say when riding again, when rolling again down the road with a huge grin on “our” faces. A true “Master” and a “Teacher” as I have never had before, “Paul Glaves” has opened up a new avenue of thoughts regarding my own mechanical abilities. For someone like me that has spend their Life in a kitchen I guess it is never too late to plunge into the “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance”! Never give up, one step at the time and above it all, stay calm as, and I quote him “it is just a bunch of nuts and bolts”! Terlingua had their own “Friends of Big Bend” ride going on… much fun to check out the bikes customized to their owner’s train of thought. A “Tilapia” quick recipe… it makes up the Blog today… or was it yesterday?
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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As simple as a tire change! Texas…
It has been some smooth days even if the photos look daunting! It was first meeting Ryan who attacked my solar system and rewired it from scratch. I’ll skip the details… the bottom line? It had been wired very very wrong and unhealthy! It was a relaxed day with so much confidence inspired. Same confidence going on this third day with Paul Glaves. What an inspiration it is to be taught and witness a bike being torn down and put back together in about the same way I would make a cup of coffee! And done right with so many attention to details… no joke… It is beyond mechanical ability, it is a “Zen” like process that leaves one actually enjoying the day and learn so much. I might even ask him when we are done if we could tear it up again!
The Desert is our Friend. Always has been but more so now than before, it is never just the land, it is also the People even as isolated as it is here.
More photos on the Blog.
Be well, Ara & Spirit
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On our way to Ft Stockton! Texas
In company of a good Friend yesterday, Lance’s Birthday passed on with more ease this year as I only hope that I some day return the incredible support that I received on this bitter sweet day. I feel so much to want to reach others wearing the same shoes, “I owe” I feel… “what can I now do” I feel…
Plagued by mechanical let downs it is now the turn for the solar power to malfunction! No “DC” power when inverter or generator off! Luckily another Friend will meet us today in Ft Stockton to figure out what is wrong. What happened to the simplicity of living in a tent? This is so complicated and so much can go wrong…
Tomorrow “Old Faithful” will come apart, she will be in good hands hoping for no bad surprises… thinking positive here.
Just another day on the road as the full moon is upon us… on the Blog.
Be well…. Ara & Spirit
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Unprepared for the storm, Texas
The future? I will be prepared! Good weather day in and day out makes me forget the other side of the coin sometimes. It only took “that one” burst of wind to knock the Dish down. Already with no phone service here yet, we both went on to Alpine to find a solution. And what luck… a slightly bent Dish was waiting for us… all is well again!
Much play with Spirit every day on this vast open land, one happy dog he now is and has become my shadow 24/7, his sight never leaving my movements.
Thinking about next week, about “Old Faithful” being dismantled as it is always a mental hardship, but for the first time I am truly so relaxed about it, how can I not be when it is Paul Glaves running the show. The parts are here… we are ready.
We took a ride into Big Bend Park, always feeling this peaceful aura descending upon us, an easy pill to swallow. More great Sunrises and Sunsets… I try real hard to not take anymore pictures of them… but that is not happening!
Be well… always. Ara & Spirit
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Karma looks upon us, Texas
What would be the chances for an incredible mechanic such as “Paul Glaves” to be our neighbor 4 miles away and offer his expertise to install a new clutch, throttle body, throttle cable and a complete maintenance schedule as “Old Faithful” is in need right now? Slim?… well, it is reality! The parts have been ordered, next week we will be not only watching but as he expressed himself learn more about this bike than I ever have.
There is no denying it, once again the road has become smooth as also there is not harm for us riding around in the meantime.
A ride to Terlingua, the Ghost Town, seeing the familiar sites and faces as not much has changed since last year.
The weather has been perfect with tolerable heat throughout the days and cool nights. This at time “puzzle” is emerging as an image with much more definite outlines.
A recipe for a quick meal, a tasty one…
As always, more on the Blog.
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Are the Stars “misaligned”?, Texas
I have to this morning take a step back and move slowly on the path of “fixing” things, or more truthfully think about on how to go about it all! Suddenly it is a full plate…
After numerous attempts my new wheel is still leaking air. I won’t even go into the details, it could be the subject for a humorous play with too many scenes. “Old Faithful” herself is diagnosed with a bad right throttle body and a slipping clutch. I am not even thinking about her annual physical such as what everyone calls a “tune up”, an involved process that requires the sidecar to be taken apart. Without a phone here, e mail is my only resource and, not surprisingly, the BMW Dealers I inquired about are not returning any breath of my inquiries. I guess they do not want to sell any parts!!!
A few miles away my cell phone will work but its battery for the second time is not charging! I often wonder if “mechanical” objects have a Life of their own. Must be…
Be well, Ara & Spirit
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Yes, thanks David... I will be waiting for that URL...
Took a little walk, Texas
Not stranded but needing to get some tire situation straighten out. The “wheel” has arrived and the tire needs to be seated properly, “Old Faithful” needs a new front mounted and things do not move too fast around here. We just rode 120 miles today and the tire guy stood me up… So we will try Monday again, plan B. closer this time.
We have been going on many walks lately. Getting over this sense of responsibility being here and somehow for some reason feeling different than just setting up camp anywhere.
1400 miles of dirt roads to walk on, ride, and right behind us is a little hill filled with flowers and the daily Sunset always better than the day before!
Spirit does not stop attracting the photographers as it happened again while in Alpine. Better him than me!
I just feel so unorganized suddenly as there is much to do and seemingly at the same time nothing to accomplish! We just need our wheels to get rolling again.
More on the Blog… till next time.
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Our First Day in “Big Bend”, Texas
First day here, first day there, all is a first including a beautiful sunset and a sunrise, the ride… it is all first row seat here.
The nights are filled with more stars than I have ever seen and 24/7 there is silence, that is total silence. One can get used to this and too much of it will make it hard when the coin is flipped as it will be when we start some short adventures.
Without a watch or clock the days flies by and only the sun lets me know to get a move on if I want to accomplish anything of any value.
Getting into the Park has not changed, it is that content feeling while riding the familiar roads and stopping at the familiar look outs. It never fails to see a hill, a rock or colors I had never noticed before, an amazing fact for as many times as we have been here.
The rest of the day is on the Blog…
Be well and thanks for the company…
Ara & Spirit
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Ara,
Looking at the blog, it sounds like things are truly falling into place at an amazing rate. We will be looking forward to the pictures…..the Mustangs are great, but as you suggest, a bit disconnected from the story.
I wondered about lights. The desert being what it is, it would not have been surprising to “discover” a habitation you did not know about by sighting their lights at night. With no lights in sight, you know you can sneeze without saying “Excuse me!”
Keep the Show on the Road!
Dave
Smiling here... and just think... "a picture being worth a thousand words" you got two stories in one page... Now I don't know which one is the longest!!! 15,000 words in the photos or what I have written...
I did see a neighbors light finally last night!!! I don't see it during the day however... very cool...
Be well my Friend... will be waiting for you.
Ara & Spirit
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All is quiet at “The Oasis”
The neighbors 2 miles away must not be home as I look around it is pitch black whichever way I turn. This is reminding me of my days on sailboats anchored a hundred miles off shore, in that previous scenario however without much of a safety net.
This definitely does not feel as just any land we have camped on! It is as I am expected to do something and then again we are here with Mother Nature to smell the roses… cactuses actually. Tomorrow morning already the “telephone” guys are coming! Just when I thought we have escaped it all… That is however good news, phone is a must in any shape or form and with it will come Broadband… less expensive than the Dish I use right now.
An oil change for “Old Faithful” and we will be ready to roll, anxious to get into Big Bend Park again… sit at “Sotol Look Out”, my favorite spot of it all… specially when a storm passes by and the sun is setting, as it did last year on a magical evening.
Be well… come and visit!
Ara & Spirit
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“Spirited Road”, Texas…
Yes, that is now the name of our road we established a couple days ago on “The Oasis”. A couple more days in Alpine to round up what is on the list and move on Monday. That is the plan. It is like I am torturing myself by not moving on today, I can taste us being there… it has to be the right day!
We took a ride to Terlingua yesterday, the Mustang Shelby’s where having their yearly meet with many powerful and expensive cars playing drag racing and reverse parking “tail in” at high speeds. Many toys displayed where I also had a chance to meet Mr Carroll Shelby himself and have him autograph my riding jacket… it’s value from faded fabric and well weathered fibers just went up!
The weather has been perfect, a slight chill is in the air in the dark hours, for a change our timing getting here has been just right. I am sure we will start seeing many travelers coming through unless this far destination and fuel prices hold them back.
More on the Blog…Be well, Ara & Spirit
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Ara and Spirit,
What a beautiful site! The clear blue skies and mountains in the distance remind me of my days in Arizona.
You didn’t say anything of your first night, and maybe it was like any of your other nights on the desert. But for anyone who lives in a city, the desert night is more of a surprise and delight than the day.
It looks like the perfect location for a pause, and a wonderful place to return to. Its not going to be easy, but it will be satisfying, and we look forward to the adventures to come.
Keep the Show on the Road
Dave
Ah! we have not spend the night there yet... we just cut the road and I was picking "bushes"... Monday will be our first night... I sure hope you come and visit!!! Thanks Dave...
Be well... Ara & Spirit
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Busy... busy!!! Monday is the move on to the land... Thought about this Forum when we "created" a road yesterday!!! Imagine that... we are going to have to name it now... ???
Our “Oasis” in Texas…
There is too much going to even start describing the days! Surprises… such as Spirit as never seen before off leash as my shadow and the keeper of the land! Playful and spirited, he loves it and expresses it accordingly. The roads leading to our camp, as I will always call it, are definitely all weather accessible and the land itself is a beauty. Isolated with views as comparable as being in the Park which is only 25 miles or so away. Today we build a road… our own road through the land making sure not to damage any of the beautiful cactuses and other vegetation. A real road! Looks like the entrance of a multi million dollar estate… and it is! 10 acres to me seems huge, specially when the nearest neighbor is two miles away. Much to explore with Terlingua Creek not too far behind… So great times coming up Monday when we move “on”.
More on the Blog…
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Almost there, Texas that is!
Today is the first day of fall, summer is already behind us and time’s traction in my Life seemingly is spinning its wheels faster and faster. It has been quite a summer and so fortunate to have the so many photos I can go back to and reminisce of the days past or close my eyes and travel in time reliving the past senses that have filled me over and over. And now, just a few miles from Texas, this friendly State that has always been so good to us, there is excitement within me as we will walk on this land of ours a bit later for the first time. Its symbol, its presence, its space already felt has filled this morning with some unprecedented excitement, a new “feel good”…
The last ride taken through Tombstone and Bisbee was of a colorful one, but it brought back some shaded memories of recent years past, memories maybe I did not need to relive again. But it is all behind now, the skies are blue, the road is well paved ahead, it is a special day for the both of us…
Be well, always. Ara & Spirit
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It was a great ride!!! Much needed...
A loop through Wilcox, AZ.
The last leg of it before arriving to Texas, near Big Bend, where we will set up shelter, work on getting some water and who knows what else…
Familiar route it was through the Chiricahua Mountains, stopping at the “Southwestern Research Center” where I use to work for a short time, then on to Portal, through Douglas, Bisbee, Tombstone, Benson and finally closing the loop back in Wilcox.
I felt a bit as doing 16 countries in 12 days, one of those days, however a much needed ride to clear up the mind and tire the body a bit.
Spirit had never been there, always confident on my choices I was wondering if the smells of years back made any kind of impression on him!
Tomorrow is Sunday and I figured a good day to go through El Paso, normally with much traffic it should be then quiet.
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Ara & Spirit,
I missed a couple of days. The photos and dialog for the last day in Vegas actually made the place seem appealing. There is one photo in there with the pink neon and evening sky that is out of this world.
The meal you prepared looks absolutely wonderful. Saddly my sense of taste (actually smell) is mostly gone as a result of a disease some years ago, but photos like yours still make me salivate. I can almost taste the favors! They say one sense substitutes for another, so I really enjoyed the photos! Hey…does that prove that presentation counts?!
And anyone reading this should go to your blog for the tip on roasting coffee at home the easy and inexpensive way. Wonderful tip!
Roadhound (Rick) here uses RAW files. I have messed with the process but my photos look average no matter what technologies I use! It will be hard to improve on yours, but I look forward to seeing some. Maybe you can show a compressed shot and the same scene using RAW. Ah, heck….I’ll do it again myself and see if it makes my photos look better. Fat chance!
Keep the Show on the Road!
Well, you and michael will have "that lack" of tastebuds in common... he also had a nasal problem and ANYTHING is good for him!!!
Vegas?... much yet to think about and write about... and then again maybe I think too much... sad town, happy town... it is everything and nothing...
Tomorrow my favorite road... check the map... from near Wilcox, AZ to Chricahua Notional monument and then over the Mountain to Portal. A few years back I use to work at 5600 feet... will write about it... long story...
I use the CANON RAW processor... much to handle and learn still...
Be well my Friend... it is going to be quite a winter I promise!!!
Ara & Spirit
Dave
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Kingman, AZ.
Great few days in Kingman, really relaxing and not doing much besides cooking a nice dinner for Mark, Anjie and Family. Also learning how to shoot in RAW format with the help of a reader, rider, photographer that happened to answer my question on some color problems and lives in Kingman himself. Small world! It just does not get any better.
We are near Tucson now, there is a bit of “I miss Utah…” in my mind mixed with the “looking forward” to this piece of land in Texas near Big Bend and hopefully getting a bit of work cooking to help the thinning wallet from these two years on the road.
Riding Texas… cooking… building a structure… some small trips planned with cooperating weather… it is going to be a busy winter. I like busy!
Be well, Ara & Spirit
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One more night in Las Vegas, Nevada.
Adventuring myself a bit further this time on the Strip, truly having a good time filling up my camera’s memory card. On a Saturday night the glitter, human waves and traffic was at its peak and people watching just does not get any better.
How about meeting a buddy of Spirit?
Ludwig above has also the good Life being driven around by his own chauffeur as Spirit does… Where did I go wrong? Some day I want to be just like him!
So we are in Kingman right now visiting some great Friends and cooking a nice dinner. Tonight will be taking a “photography” lesson from a Forum member that also lives in Kingman. I have been trying to learn how to shoot in RAW, he replied to my thread, he happens to live here… we cannot pass up the opportunity. What luck!
More of Vegas on the Blog.
Be well… Ara & Spirit
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Las Vegas, Nevada…
First we went south west, made a u turn, then we went south east! Been thinking about it for over a year now to spend a couple night in Las Vegas and let the camera witness the neon lights and human waves.
The picture taking has been a challenge and so has been the crowds. The uneasy part was leaving Spirit behind for a few hours as I will again do tonight… with a bag and camera in hand he did not quite understand why this time he was not going.
I know I will look back at this one day and be glad that I did, this is not like any other destination we are used to, it is however good for the soul, it shows me another side of the coin I could spend my Life living within.
Tomorrow we will be in Kingman for a couple days to visit my Friends Anjie and Mark… I am planning to be busy in their kitchen! We all need some real food sometimes.
Vegas at night… on the Blog, bigger and brighter than ever.
Be well… Ara & Spirit
Lifelong Journey On The Road...
in Motorcycles
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Matters of the Heart, Texas
The ride to Alpine the other day was of a different tempo! There is a first for everything. What a better way to celebrate two years on the road with an Ambulance ride to the Hospital!
The heart just gave up. Spirit was left behind and I went ahead for some care and maintenance. First the bike, now myself. We will all be brand new soon. We are going back today as we made it here when released, more tests and needing to spend some time with a Cardiologist, either here or in Odessa.
I feel a bit in limbo as they say! The bike is even covered right now as we will be away for these couple of days. What a sad sight!
Coincidentally it was also the celebration of the “Day of the Dead” in Terlingua.
More about it all on the Blog…
Be well… Ara & Spirit