Lincoln Highway Adventure Part 5; Great Basin And Points West

[roadhound]

Part 5 - Great Basin National Park and Westward to Austin.

 

In July my father, son, and I embarked on a journey across the deserts of Utah and Nevada following old trails, railroads, and highways. This installment covers days 4, 5, and 6 of that journey.

 

 

After 3 days of heavy historic highway driving it was time for the crew to take a break and stay in the same place for a day or two. After our night in Ely we refreshed our ice and food supplies and headed eastward on US 50 with Great Basin National Park as our destination.

 

We took a short diversion off of the highway to check out the Ward Charcoal Kilns that date back to 1876. These 30 foot tall stone structures were used to turn chords of wood into charcoal to be used in the roasting ovens in Ward that processed the raw ore from nearby mines. Each kiln would convert 35 chords of wood into over 1000 bushels of charcoal. By 1879 the railroad was bringing coke into the area and the need for charcoal in the smelters was eliminated.

 

Ward Charcoal Ovens

 

 

Great Basin is (in my opinion) one of the great unknown treasures of the National Park System. This lightly visited park lies about 70 miles east of Ely and has a number of interesting geological features. After pitching our tent in a camp site next the Lehman Creek we took the guided tour of Lehman Caves. Our second day in the park was spent hiking among the Bristlecone Pines out to what remains of the glacier that lies below Wheeler Peek. We also drove out of the park for a few miles to the trailhead for Lexington Arch. The climb out to the arch is a 650 foot rise over 1 1/2 miles with an impressive 75 foot tall limestone arch at the end of the trail. As I discovered, the best time for viewing the arch is during the morning hours when the sun would be shining on its face, not the late afternoon.

 

Parachute Formation in Lehman Caves

 

Bristlecone Pine

 

The Glacier, or what's left of it.

 

Our backyard, Lehman Creek.

 

The clouds that had brought us rain while driving through Tippets and Schellbourne the previous days stayed with us during our visit to the park. Although it did frustrate me from a photographic perspective by eliminating all the shadows it did create a memorable experience for the three of us. It's always an adventure cooking over a campstove in the rain.

 

Proof that the Pot-O-Gold lies at the end of a 2 lane road.

 

On day 6 of our journey we packed up our wet tent, folded the mud covered tarps and headed westward on US 50. We once again stopped in Ely to stock up on ice and other essential supplies, spent an hour at the Nevada Northern Railway Museum (Thursday is a quiet day at the railyard) and then continued west out of town.

 

Our next destination was the ghost town of Hamilton, Nevada. At one time this city was the County Seat for White Pine County and had a population of over 10,000. Once the mines dried up the town dissappeared. Not much remains of the town now with but a few visible foundations, lots of rusted tin, and a couple of brick walls still standing. There was some sign of recent activity, perhaps within the last 30 to 40 years, but no sign that anybody has lived there in quite a while. With the exception of the dirt road that is well maintained the area is covered by sagebrush. It is always amazing to me how nature reclaims what's hers. The dirt road had a Lincoln marker at the beginning of FR 401 but none of the maps or guides that I have reference Hamilton. I am still wondering what path the Lincoln actually took through this area.

 

Hamilton, Nevada

 

Hamilton, Nevada

 

Smelter Chimney - Hamilton Nevada

 

After exploring what was left of Hamilton we headed back to US 50 towards Eureka and Austin. We had decided early in the day that Austin would be our stopping point for the evening and looked forward to a meal that wasn't cooked over a Coleman stove. We stopped in Eureka at the Eureka Sentinel Museum where I was able to pick up a copy of the first and fifth editions of the Lincoln Highway Guide before continuing on to Austin. The museum is well worth the stop.

 

 

West to Austin on US 50

 

Next up: The Really, Really, Really, Lonely Road

[Alex Burr - hester_nec]

The 1941 AAA Western edition Tour Book doesn't show Hamilton either. So, it was probably dead by then.

 

A great trip report. That's another trip I'd like to make someday, across U S 50, but probably never will make it.

 

I have a copy of Wulf Berg's excellent account of his trip across U S 50 - "U S 50 - Coast to Coast" - no mention of Hamilton there. Nor does Wendell Trogdon in his book "Lonely is the Road - U.S.50: A Journey Across America" , tho he does mention Ruth, to the west of Ely.

 

Hudsonly,

Alex Burr

Edited September 1, 2007 by hester_nec

[mobilene]

I laughed out loud at the pot-o'-gold photo!

 

The Ward charcoal ovens are sure curious! If you hadn't explained, I would never have guessed what they were.

 

This is a great series and I look forward to the really^3 lonely road.

 

jim

Edited September 1, 2007 by mobilene

[roadhound]

The 1941 AAA Western edition Tour Book doesn't show Hamilton either. So, it was probably dead by then.

 

I'm sure it was dead long before that. There may have been a few stragglers left occupying the town when the Lincoln came through but Hamilton's glory days had long since passed. The road that bypassed that route and went over Antelope Summitt was built in 1924 according to Brian Butko's book.

 

The photo below is the marker on FR401 about 8 miles off of 50 and 4 miles before Hamilton. The road to Belmont is to the right and not in the picture. The main road running through the picture leads to Hamilton, and the smaller road going off to the left goes up into the hills and becomes very narrow and overgrown. Don't ask me how I know this. I've confessed to too many navigational errors already.

 

 

Roadhound

[Keep the Show on the Road!]

I'm sure it was dead long before that. There may have been a few stragglers left occupying the town when the Lincoln came through but Hamilton's glory days had long since passed. The road that bypassed that route and went over Antelope Summitt was built in 1924 according to Brian Butko's book.

 

The photo below is the marker on FR401 about 8 miles off of 50 and 4 miles before Hamilton. The road to Belmont is to the right and not in the picture. The main road running through the picture leads to Hamilton, and the smaller road going off to the left goes up into the hills and becomes very narrow and overgrown. Don't ask me how I know this. I've confessed to too many navigational errors already.

 

 

Roadhound

 

Roadhound,

 

Gees, now I wish I had gone to the National Park...spectacular photos!

 

Just a quick note:

 

About 35 miles out of Ely westbound there is a small ruin of yellow stone on the right. This is the Rosevear Stage Station/ Ranch. About 1.3 west at 39.34904, 115.39196 the old 1913 Lincoln Highway turns off toward Hamilton. It is FS 401 and CR11.

 

The road out of Hamilton westbound is poor, and probably not passable in most vehicles. You probably took most of CR11 into Hamilton, so you were on the original road much of the way. (Authority: The Lincoln Highway – Nevada, Franzwa and Petersen)

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

[roadhound]

Roadhound,

 

Gees, now I wish I had gone to the National Park...spectacular photos!

 

Just a quick note:

 

About 35 miles out of Ely westbound there is a small ruin of yellow stone on the right. This is the Rosevear Stage Station/ Ranch. About 1.3 west at 39.34904, 115.39196 the old 1913 Lincoln Highway turns off toward Hamilton. It is FS 401 and CR11.

 

The road out of Hamilton westbound is poor, and probably not passable in most vehicles. You probably took most of CR11 into Hamilton, so you were on the original road much of the way. (Authority: The Lincoln Highway – Nevada, Franzwa and Petersen)

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

 

Thanks Keep,

 

That is the same road that my Delorme Gazateer has labeled as FR 401 so I believe that we were indeed on the Lincoln on the way out to Hamilton. Thanks for the validation.

 

On the return from Hamilton there was a Y in the road just north of the town with Belmont to the left and the route that we came in on to the right. Their wasn't a clear enough route on the map for us to get from Belmont to US 50 so we went back to 50 the way we came.

[Keep the Show on the Road!]

Thanks Keep,

 

That is the same road that my Delorme Gazateer has labeled as FR 401 so I believe that we were indeed on the Lincoln on the way out to Hamilton. Thanks for the validation.

 

On the return from Hamilton there was a Y in the road just north of the town with Belmont to the left and the route that we came in on to the right. Their wasn't a clear enough route on the map for us to get from Belmont to US 50 so we went back to 50 the way we came.

 

I think that was wise. According to Franzwa, it took Peteresen 2.5 hours to go 6.5 miles on part of that road!

 

We have missed the park and the ovens. Both look worth a revisit.

 

I keep looking at your photos and marveling. I like my work, until I see yours.

 

I picked up a new point and shoot super telephoto (about 550mm equivalent) with a 28MM wide angle the other day to replace my Nikon 8400. I like the 8400 with its 24mm wide angle, but I wanted to catch some of the wildlife in the yard, and the Nikon 80mm obviously isn’t good enough.

 

I justified the purchase to Sheila on the basis that when we go to sell the house one day, the wildlife shots will be more than worth the price of the camera! It worked, or maybe it was the new gas fireplace insert she wanted that we bought that tipped the scale!! She claimed that would increase the value of the house, too. I want to buy Photoshop CS3. Will that increase the value of the house?

 

Back to the subject. Your photos are just flat out excellent. 2 out of three are magazine cover quality. I would like to just get one photo like that.

 

Is another installment in the works?

 

I also have a question about the GPS. Doesn't it show where you are on a sufficiently detailed map so that you can decide the route without depending on the wayfinding voice ?

 

Oh, and for the PBS guys, these places are on Route 66. (I mean them no offense. I hope after their program is produced, they will have the time to go back and personally enjoy what they missed.)

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

[roadhound]

I think that was wise. According to Franzwa, it took Peteresen 2.5 hours to go 6.5 miles on part of that road!

 

We have missed the park and the ovens. Both look worth a revisit.

 

I keep looking at your photos and marveling. I like my work, until I see yours.

 

I picked up a new point and shoot super telephoto (about 550mm equivalent) with a 28MM wide angle the other day to replace my Nikon 8400. I like the 8400 with its 24mm wide angle, but I wanted to catch some of the wildlife in the yard, and the Nikon 80mm obviously isn’t good enough.

 

I justified the purchase to Sheila on the basis that when we go to sell the house one day, the wildlife shots will be more than worth the price of the camera! It worked, or maybe it was the new gas fireplace insert she wanted that we bought that tipped the scale!! She claimed that would increase the value of the house, too. I want to buy Photoshop CS3. Will that increase the value of the house?

 

Back to the subject. Your photos are just flat out excellent. 2 out of three are magazine cover quality. I would like to just get one photo like that.

 

Is another installment in the works?

 

I also have a question about the GPS. Doesn't it show where you are on a sufficiently detailed map so that you can decide the route without depending on the wayfinding voice ?

 

Oh, and for the PBS guys, these places are on Route 66. (I mean them no offense. I hope after their program is produced, they will have the time to go back and personally enjoy what they missed.)

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

 

On topic stuff first:

 

I am working on the photo edits for the 6th and final installment. I think I have a few more photos that you might enjoy. I'll go back and get the first installement that I skipped over after that.

 

My GPS shows roads and does great on city streets and interstates. The image is not an actual satellite image but a computer generated drawing and doesn't have great detail when it comes to terrain. It is also week when it comes to the type of road that is displayed. The interstate looks the same as a gravel road. When it came to Hamilton I don't think we were even using it at the time but had we it might have kept me from taking that wrong turn.

 

I can relate to the PBS guys in a way. After that many days of traveling you begin to get road weary and your goal becomes getting to your destination instead of the journey.

 

The off topic stuff:

 

I see things work the same way around your house as they do here. I wanted a new lens and all it cost me was wood flooring in the dining room (plus the cost of the lens of course.)

 

Congrats on your new camera purchase and best of luck. One thing that you want to watch out for with the extremely long telephotos is the shutter speed. If you have the camera in an auto mode it may not pick a shutter speed that is fast enough to compensate for the motion of the lens. The rule of thumb for shutter speeds is 1 over the focal length. In other words at 500mm you should at a minimum be using 1/500th of a second. My other advice would be to use a monopod to help steady the camera if you want to use slower shutter speeds. If the camera has image stabilization that helps too.

 

This guy was flying over my back yard this afternoon while I was building a shed. It was shot with a 400mm lens + 1.4x extender at 1/600th of a second. Because my camera is a digital SLR with a 1.6x magnification factor (has to do with the sensor) I essentially had the equivelent of a 960mm lens.

[Keep the Show on the Road!]

I’m pleased there will be a 6th installment. I want to see at least one photo of something I have photographed.

 

If Jennifer and DennyG can talk GPS, we can talk cameras a bit. Besides, I believe a camera is as fundamental to a road trip as a car.

 

One of the other features of the new camera is optical image stabilization. I wouldn’t even consider buying a 500mm equivalent today without it. Now if they would build in a GPS...

 

I do have a monopod and I do use it, but the optical stabilization on the new camera is really quite good. Obviously it won’t stop subject movement, but it sure helps on handheld photos at any focal length when you can’t shoot at a fast shutter speed.

 

I resist going back to SLR. I was there when they hit the market in the 1950’s and bought a Nikon F (which I still have...and which still works perfectly). I ended up a pack mule with three or four lenses, an extender or two, tripod, filters, etc. I even bought dual SLR’s for stereo! And an ice chest for film. A photo trip was like moving. And you should have seen me in the field! I looked like I was equipped to climb Mt. Everest.

 

90% of the time today on a trip, I have four cameras with me in the car. The main one, a tiny one I keep in my shirt pocket, and my digital stereo pair. The whole mash up fits in one small camera bag and weighs practically nothing.

 

I fear a SLR would entice me back to the pack mule days. And if I end up going there, you will bear the responsibility. Besides, a new SLR and lenses could cost me $10,000, with home improvements taken into consideration.

 

Now to GPS. I believe my “sage advice” was to buy an inexpensive GPS and learn from it what you want on your next one. It sounds to me that you need something that not only shows the dirt roads, it distinguishes between them and main roads.

 

Jennifer and DennyG have been dialoging about using the Delorme Blu tooth GPS receiver with a Palm TX. I own a Palm TX (complete with cracked screen). I know from what Jennifer has said that the Palm TX will download the detailed Delorme maps, which are quite good. If she continues to like the lash up, I may go that way, and get the Palm repaired. The marginal cost will be less than a purpose built GPS and I will have wi fi in my hand again.

 

I’m looking forward to the next installment....and the first.

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

[roadhound]

I’m pleased there will be a 6th installment. I want to see at least one photo of something I have photographed.

 

If Jennifer and DennyG can talk GPS, we can talk cameras a bit. Besides, I believe a camera is as fundamental to a road trip as a car.

 

One of the other features of the new camera is optical image stabilization. I wouldn’t even consider buying a 500mm equivalent today without it. Now if they would build in a GPS...

 

I do have a monopod and I do use it, but the optical stabilization on the new camera is really quite good. Obviously it won’t stop subject movement, but it sure helps on handheld photos at any focal length when you can’t shoot at a fast shutter speed.

 

I resist going back to SLR. I was there when they hit the market in the 1950’s and bought a Nikon F (which I still have...and which still works perfectly). I ended up a pack mule with three or four lenses, an extender or two, tripod, filters, etc. I even bought dual SLR’s for stereo! And an ice chest for film. A photo trip was like moving. And you should have seen me in the field! I looked like I was equipped to climb Mt. Everest.

 

90% of the time today on a trip, I have four cameras with me in the car. The main one, a tiny one I keep in my shirt pocket, and my digital stereo pair. The whole mash up fits in one small camera bag and weighs practically nothing.

 

I fear a SLR would entice me back to the pack mule days. And if I end up going there, you will bear the responsibility. Besides, a new SLR and lenses could cost me $10,000, with home improvements taken into consideration.

 

Now to GPS. I believe my “sage advice” was to buy an inexpensive GPS and learn from it what you want on your next one. It sounds to me that you need something that not only shows the dirt roads, it distinguishes between them and main roads.

 

Jennifer and DennyG have been dialoging about using the Delorme Blu tooth GPS receiver with a Palm TX. I own a Palm TX (complete with cracked screen). I know from what Jennifer has said that the Palm TX will download the detailed Delorme maps, which are quite good. If she continues to like the lash up, I may go that way, and get the Palm repaired. The marginal cost will be less than a purpose built GPS and I will have wi fi in my hand again.

 

I’m looking forward to the next installment....and the first.

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

 

Now there's and idea...a camera that includes the GPS position in the metadata. Canon are you listening?

 

Beware using the image stabilization on a monopod, it can cause a feedback loop that actually makes the shakes worse, depending on what type of IS systems it is. I know that it is the case on my $1500 (+patio furniture) telephoto.

 

I am the pack mule. I carry all my camera gear in a backpack that weighs close to 20 pounds when loaded for an airshow, 3 lenses, 2 bodies, +batteries adds up quickly. It also has a pouch that I put the bladder from a camelback in for those hot days on the tarmac.

 

I am a novice when it comes to GPS systems and am going to have to do more research before the next purchase. The Garmin that I purchased before this last trip was a snap decision based on the best info I had at the time. I have a lot to learn when it comes to GPS and navigation. If it get serious about it I will need to look at the Palm\Delorme setup. I never travel anywhere without the paper Delorme maps and would hope that an electronic version would be just as good.

 

roadhound

[Keep the Show on the Road!]

Kind of ironic, but I’m glad to know there is a price to be paid for art and beauty, even today! Twenty pounds and a backpack...that is close to my recollections. I forgot to mention that in addition to the Nikon F, and its stuff, I also carried a twin lens reflex for larger format black and white. Ah, the good ‘ole days!

 

But I would love to cradle a nice telephoto in my left hand and snap off a few shots. You just don’t get the feel of photography with 8 ounces of point and shoot zoom lens hardware held to your eye....or worse yet, held so you can see the screen. Now where is my wind up movie camera?

 

The monopod and optical stabilizer feedback loop is interesting and tough to understand. I could almost grasp the cause on a tripod where a consistent vibration or even a regular, but tiny oscillation (as with a steady breeze) might be set up. But a monopod, at least when I use mine, hardly produces a repeatable movement pattern for me. I have compared sequential photos taken on the monopod and you would think I was dancing with it! The only way I could get it stable enough to interact with an image stabilizer would be to pound it into the ground, and twang it like a guitar!

 

To get completely off topic, have you posted any of your work on Tabblo? I know you don’t “need” praise, but those folks would go nuts. I bet you would get a hundred kudos in a week.

 

I am looking forward to your visit to Eureka and Austin. Did you camp in Austin? Or risk the Lincoln Motel? Did you get to Middlegate and Eastgate?. How about the Overland in Fallon?

 

Regarding GPS...I have used the Delorme BT-20 connected via cable to my laptop, and it works great, with mucho detail and spot on tracking. The downside is that a laptop is too big with Sheila along, and too clumsy when I’m alone. The palm TX - Delorme NT-20 Blu tooth might be the best of two worlds. You get the Delorme detail in a handheld. I doubt that combo would be as good as a purpose built for navigating a big city, but I don’t need it for that.

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

[roadhound]

Kind of ironic, but I’m glad to know there is a price to be paid for art and beauty, even today! Twenty pounds and a backpack...that is close to my recollections. I forgot to mention that in addition to the Nikon F, and its stuff, I also carried a twin lens reflex for larger format black and white. Ah, the good ‘ole days!

 

But I would love to cradle a nice telephoto in my left hand and snap off a few shots. You just don’t get the feel of photography with 8 ounces of point and shoot zoom lens hardware held to your eye....or worse yet, held so you can see the screen. Now where is my wind up movie camera?

 

The monopod and optical stabilizer feedback loop is interesting and tough to understand. I could almost grasp the cause on a tripod where a consistent vibration or even a regular, but tiny oscillation (as with a steady breeze) might be set up. But a monopod, at least when I use mine, hardly produces a repeatable movement pattern for me. I have compared sequential photos taken on the monopod and you would think I was dancing with it! The only way I could get it stable enough to interact with an image stabilizer would be to pound it into the ground, and twang it like a guitar!

 

To get completely off topic, have you posted any of your work on Tabblo? I know you don’t “need” praise, but those folks would go nuts. I bet you would get a hundred kudos in a week.

 

I am looking forward to your visit to Eureka and Austin. Did you camp in Austin? Or risk the Lincoln Motel? Did you get to Middlegate and Eastgate?. How about the Overland in Fallon?

 

Regarding GPS...I have used the Delorme BT-20 connected via cable to my laptop, and it works great, with mucho detail and spot on tracking. The downside is that a laptop is too big with Sheila along, and too clumsy when I’m alone. The palm TX - Delorme NT-20 Blu tooth might be the best of two worlds. You get the Delorme detail in a handheld. I doubt that combo would be as good as a purpose built for navigating a big city, but I don’t need it for that.

 

Keep the Show on the Road!

 

Eureka and Austin? Yes, but you'll have to wait to hear the details other than to say that the floor in room 14 of the Lincoln Motel has a lot of bounce in it.

 

I prefer a little bit of weight in my telephoto lenses. I need the solid feeling that you get with a few pounds of glass in your hands.

 

From what I have been able to gather the circuity in the IS system requires input (motion) or else it will start creating its own motion. You may or may not be able to hold a monopod steady enough to create a problem which problem depends on how sensitive the IS system is. I always considered a monopod good for 2 or 3 f/stops and not much more. In my opinion it doesn't come close to replacing a good solid tripod. I know for sure you get a feedback loop with a tripod and I suppose you could get away with a monopod and image stabilization if you were sloppy about it. The key thing is to be aware of it just in case it does happen.

 

Roadhound